Bring your appetite and join our hungry writer Eric Sylvers as he travels through Piedmont on four gastronomic missions.
"Is Piedmont sexy?" Federico Ceretto asks. He appears to be serious.
I contemplate how to answer his awkward question as I spear some of my salad, which I have been told contains forty-one different types of herbs, flowers, leaves and lettuce. Federico oozes Piedmont; he is Piedmont. His family produces wine here (eighteen types including some excellent Barolo), owns the Michelin-stared restaurant where we're dining (Piazza Duomo), has hazelnut orchards, makes torrone (Italy's nougat), supports the Slow Food Movement...the list goes on.
"No, don't answer that," Federico says. "I hate to admit it, but Piedmont is not sexy."
Piedmont has long had a reputation of being a cold, grey region--a favorite of outdoorsmen, but not many others. The inhabitants seem to have a tough, quiet exterior and the hilly land seems hard to navigate. But as you look closer, you'll find that the area has a slow-burning appeal. Its exquisite food and wines and deep sense of tradition make it one of the most sensual places in Italy. The region also boasts picturesque hill towns, elegant cafes and some of the most beautiful mountains in the Italian Alps.
My gastronomic hunt begins in Alba, the region's culinary epicenter. On the edge of the Barolo winemaking region, the town is an epicurean nirvana. Over the next few days, I discover five chefs, a cheese-making family, a chocolate genius and a coffee drink changes my life (and resting heart rate). I realize that the people are actually very warm, despite their stony first impression. Most of all, I am seduced by Piedmont's hedonistic offerings--rich foods, bold wines and romantic windswept hills.
Is Piedmont sexy? Federico need not worry.
GASTRONOMIC HUNT:
Mission #1: Discover Five Amazing Chefs
THE INVENTOR: Enrico Crippa at Piazza Duomo (Alba)
"Watching an opera or looking at a painting can inspire a new dish," says chef Enrico Crippa, describing how his cooking evolves. "While walking through town, I might see something in a window that brings to mind the colors for a new sauce. Insights also come from a trip to the garden or farmers' market."
Crippa, thirty-six, has been working in restaurant kitchens for twenty-one years, and it shows in his confidently inventive cuisine. Piazza Duomo was awarded its first Michelin star last January, only a year after opening, thanks to Crippa's ability to combine local flavors in cutting-edge dishes. Think wild salad with quail eggs and anchovies; chickpea cream with crispy pork, lime and tamarind; sea bass with raspberry and the incredible forty-one-ingredient salad.
"Sometimes I dream of leaving the restaurant business so I'd have more free time," admits Crippa, "but this is what I do best." Thank goodness for that.
Piazza Risorgimento 4 (Alba)
+39 0173 366167, www.piazzaduomoalba.it
THE GODFATHER: Marco Forneris at La Libera (Alba)
If Alba is the center of Piedmont's food galaxy, its shining star is La Libera, where for twelve years Marco Forneris has been cooking regional classics.
"It's not hard to make good food in Piedmont because the raw materials are excellent," Forneris says humbly.
When visiting the sleek, minimalist restaurant, be sure to try his simple and wonderful carne cruda (raw veal), and the vitello tonnato (veal topped with a light tuna sauce), deliciously light with just a hint of mayonnaise. And don't leave without tasting the tajarin, a traditional handmade pasta with rabbit and basil cream sauce.
Only when pressed does Forneris offer his take on why he creates such flavorful plates: "Well, I guess it's the personal touch that every chef gives," he says.
via Elvio Pertinace, 24 (Alba)
+39 0173 293155
THE TRADITIONALIST: Gianfranco Massolino at Trattoria della Posta (Monforte D'Alba)
"The Langhe area has no sea or mountains, so if you come here, it's to drink Barolo and eat," chef Gianfranco Massolino says matter-of-factly.
This perspective may put a lot of pressure on local chefs, but Massolino is for the challenge, --following in the footsteps of his father, grandfather and great-grandfather, who founded the restaurant in 1875. Trattoria della Posta resided for 125 years in the center of Monforte until 2000, when Massolino and his wife moved it to their country house a few miles outside of town,--which is surrounded by a garden and sweeping view of the surrounding hills.
"When I finished my military service, I came to work here right away," says Massolino. "This was what our family did; I never imagined doing anything else."
Everything in Trattoria della Posta exudes tradition, good food and comfort, and it could only be created by someone who wanted to share the secrets of Piedmont's culinary traditions. The terra-cotta floor, ancient heaters, wooden doors, period furniture and fresh flowers on the tables (a nice touch that is surprisingly hard to find in Italy) all make the place feel like home--which is not surprising since Massolino and his wife live upstairs.
Massolino's bagna cauda, a warm garlic-anchovy dip scooped up with vegetables, is tasty without being overpowering, not an easy achievement considering its main ingredients. His mixed fried fish dish is flavorful yet not at all greasy, and his green vegetable ravioli is nothing less than perfect--the cheese filling melts in your mouth.
Massimo's first child was born last June. "Of course I hope he will want to take over the restaurant and continue the family tradition," Massolino says with a chuckle. "But that will be up to him."
Località Sant'Anna (Monforte d'Alba)
+39 0173 78120, www.trattoriadellaposta.it
THE STOWAWAY: Claudio Bione at Osteria ai Binari (near Asti)
Eating dinner in an abandoned building in a tiny (still functioning) train station would be memorable enough, but Claudio Bione's culinary talents transform it into an unforgettable experience. Trains have been passing through since 1912, and you are likely to hear one rumble by as you enjoy your gnocchi and rabbit.
"The more the town said no, the more stubborn I became," says Bione of his four-year ordeal getting the town to approve his plan to turn the abandoned building into a wine bar and later a restaurant.
Nine years later, Bione enjoys a happy following of food lovers, most of whom arrive at this outpost after word-of-mouth recommendation. While the meat entrees are sturdy but unremarkable, the small plates are worth the trip: Try the carne cruda (raw veal), agnolotti (traditional stuffed pasta) and gnocchi made with farro flour (rather than potatoes), which makes them lighter.
Although glad about his success, Bione emphasizes that being a chef in an area lauded for its culinary traditions is a never-ending job. "To be a good chef, you have to taste other wines and foods whenever you can," says Bione. "I always dine out on Monday nights to see what other cooks are doing."
Frazione Mombarone, 145 (Asti)
+39 0141 294228
THE NATURALIST: Giorgio Marone at Porta di Po (Turin)
Giorgio Marone's restaurant Porta di Po opened in November 2006 and quickly became a favorite because of his dedication to using only local, seasonal foods.
Marone's menu changes along with the seasons and features updated Piedmontese dishes. Recently, he offered carne cruda with salsiccia di bra, a seasoned veal sausage that tastes notably different from the traditional version, which uses unseasoned veal.
"Cooks are always on display, so you must stay on your toes," says Marone, who produced handmade stationery for a living before quitting at forty-one to follow his dream. "Cooking was always my passion; I just transformed my hobby into a job."
Marone's goal is to create dishes that are filling yet not heavy, such as his green gnocchi. Prepared with bread crumbs instead of potatoes, they're slightly chewy and deliciously light.
"If someone arrives at dessert feeling satisfied but still craving a sweet, then I have done my job," says Marone, whose Bonet Langarolo, a chocolate pudding made with milk, eggs, sugar, cocoa powder, coffee, Marsala wine and almond macaroons, is nothing short of extraordinary.
Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 1 (Turin)
+39 011 8127642
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GASTRONOMIC HUNT:
Mission #2: Explore Turin's Caffe Culture
Bicerin-- the quintessential Turin drink--is as simple as it is dangerous: equal parts espresso, hot chocolate and thick cream. The brave of heart (like myself) can have it topped with fresh whipped cream. Drink and wait. As the bicherin works its way through your system, the high kicks in--and it's a very high high.
Many of Turin's caffes recall the decadent mid-nineteenth century, when the city was a hotbed of intellectuals who met to discuss the unification of Italy over espresso. No caffè travels back in time better than Caffe Torino in Piazza San Carlo, complete with a winding staircase, marble fireplaces and tuxedo-clad waiters. The best bicerin can be found, fittingly, in a caffe called Al Bicherin, which has been serving drinks for more than two hundred and fifty years in its small, wood-paneled interior.
Try a tramezzino for a light lunch or mid-afternoon snack. The Torinesi say that they--not the Venetians--invented these little sandwiches made with white bread and filled with everything from tuna to mushrooms. The city's best version is at Mulasanno, home to regal Turin. It's small and often packed, so expect a wait before relaxing into one of its worn red leather chairs.
Caffe Torino
Piazza San Carlo, 204
+39 011 545118, www.caffe-torino.it
Caffe Al Bicerin
Piazza della Consolata, 5
+39 011 4369325, www.bicerin.it
Mulasanno
Piazza Castello, 15
+39 011 547990, www.caffemulassano.com
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GASTRONOMIC HUNT:
Mission #3: Pinpoint Piedmont's Best Chocolate
Turin has been churning out chocolate for three hundred years. Guido Gobino, a family-run company, is considered one of the top producers, not only because it uses the best ingredients, but because "we know what to do with them," says affable Guido himself. The classic Piedmont chocolate is Giandujotto, made with cocoa and hazelnuts, as well as the creamy version Crema Gianduja.
Guido Gobino
Chocolate & Giandujotti
Via Cagliari, 15/b (Turin)
+39 011 2476245, www.guidogobino.it
Guido Gobino chocolates are now available at Buon Italia in New York. www.buonitalia.com
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GASTRONOMIC HUNT:
Mission #4: Meet the Cheese Makers
Although mouthwatering cheeses can be found at local markets, food lovers can go straight to the producers to buy them when they're still warm and perfectly ripe. One of these is the Giordano family, who has been making cheese for forty years in Bossolasco, a small town near Alba.
"When I was eight and wanted to play, my grandmother would say, 'Let's make cheese,' and that's how my career began," says Pinuccia Giordano. "They get you started early here."
Murazzano DOP, one of the family's most famous cheeses, is a semisoft mix of cow and sheep milk that tastes slightly aged and is quite smooth. You're not just buying cheese here; you're partaking of decades of experience and traditions that are alive and well in this small corner of the world.
"We put our cheese everywhere--on top of vegetables, omelets, pizza, you name it," says Giordano. "It's much better than mozzarella."
Azienda Agricola Abate di Giordano
Cascina Abate, Bossolasco
+39 0173 793251, www.cascinaabate.it
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WHERE TO STAY
Golden Palace Hotel (Turin). This new five-star hotel is a study in contrasts: While the feel is masculine and minimal (lots of black marble and wooden furniture), the 195 rooms are warm and comfortable. After exploring the city, enjoy an aperitif at the marble bar--where digital clocks tick off Olympic records--or blow off steam with a Turkish bath and sauna. +39 011 5512111, www.thi.it
Hotel Castello di Sinio (Sinio). This restored castle welcomes you to the heart of the Langhe. Relax in the courtyard and garden; then take a dip in the pool overlooking the town. At night, guests sleep like kings: The rooms boast vaulted ceilings, antique furniture and soft linens. +39 0173 263889, www.hotelcastellodisinio.com
Villa Beccaris (Monforte d'Alba). The tastefully decorated rooms, many with excellent views of Monforte d'Alba or the surrounding hills, urge you to forget whatever you were supposed to be forgetting with this trip. But the best parts of Villa Beccaris are the small garden, spacious pool and Limonaia, a hillside dining area that feels like a solarium. Truly charming. +39 0173 78158, www.villabeccaris.it
