Diane Becker will never forget her visit to the Gucci prototype laboratory in Florence. Nearly all the pattern-makers, marketing directors and research heads were elegant, stylishly coiffed men in their thirties, wearing charcoal suits. The one exception was a simply dressed man around seventy, a master craftsman who had learned artisanal leatherworking as a boy. There, amid the cutting-edge machinery and design samples, he painstakingly mixed his own recipe for a vegetable-based tanner, waxed the dyed leather and carefully heated it. "About fifteen processes later, he had created an incredible product," recalls Becker, a department director at one of Italy's leading fashion schools. "What was most remarkable," she explains, "was the respect that all the chic young guys had for his knowledge, and the obvious joy he took in transmitting it."
Not surprisingly, the experts at Gucci (and other top design houses) recognize that attention to detail, respect for tradition and passion for a well-made object are the hallmarks of a luxury Italian handbag. And now that the Chinese are increasing their production of leather goods, especially at the lower-end of the market, Italian designers are concentrating their efforts more than ever on their most exclusive goods. "It's all in the touch and the look," explains Laura Gori, president of the Scuola de Cuoio, a Florence-based school that trains artisanal leather workers. "A fine handbag should be something you want to feel; it should look alive. After all, it was an animal once."
The Sweet Smell of Leather
It isn't necessary to take a course in animal skins to recognize premium materials; your senses will do just fine. High-quality leather will be buttery soft and a pleasure to touch. It will also smell, well, like leather. The scent should not be overpowering, advises Gori: "Leather tanned in the Middle East and North Africa often smells too heavy," she says, "while Italian tanneries bring out the lovely perfume of the leather."
The tanning process transforms raw animal hides and skins into finished leather. By absorbing tanning agents made from vegetable or mineral substances, the skins stop decaying and become supple and durable. The natural, plant-based tanning agents produced from chestnut and other trees by the tanneries in Florence's Santa Croce del Arno are considered the best. "Each family hands down its own recipes, including the type of barrel used to store the agents. It's almost like wine-making," says Becker. The color from a good tannery will be lustrous and somewhat translucent, allowing the leather's natural markings to show through, she explains.
Sew Neat
Most producers use synthetic thread today because it's stronger than the traditional cotton. And a high number of stitches—once a benchmark of quality—has become less important as long stitches have become more fashionable. One thing, however, has not changed: neatness counts. Stitches should be evenly spaced and run parallel to each other. Although machines do most of the work these days, some luxury bags are still stitched entirely by hand. "Hand-stitching is one of the ways that modern designers can distinguish their most exclusive products," says Andrea Niccoli, a Florence-based handbag designer whose work has appeared under the Roberto Cavalli label.
The Inside Story
Many top-quality bags come with interiors just as luxurious as their exteriors: Bottega Veneta's Woven Hobo (pictured) is lined with supple suede, Gucci uses silk to line its black python flap bag, and Prada's Bauletto is lined with the same distressed leather as its exterior. But anyone who has had a pen explode or her sunglasses poke a hole in the lining knows that durability can be more important than look or feel.
While cotton and linen are still popular, the sturdiest linings in Italy are made of polyamide, a nylon that can withstand all manner of abuse. Often transformed into signature jacquards—fabrics with intricately woven patterns—polyamide is the fabric of choice at Limonta, a lining supplier to many of Italy's top design houses.
"A good, rich lining should perform well in a breaking test [which stretches a fabric by machine to determine its strength], because there is nothing worse than a rip in the lining after a short time," explains Celestino Panzeri, Limonta's artistic director. "The lining should feel very light, yet stiff; be easily cleaned but water repellent and hold its color for a long time, even when wet. Polyamide meets these characteristics."
Grasping the Brass Ring
When it comes to hardware, think heavy. Although Italians frequently use lighter materials, such as aluminum and zinc, the best buckles and clasps are made of solid brass. Far more durable than other metals, a solid brass clasp will feel weighty and sturdy in the hand. It might not, however, necessarily look like brass. Thanks to plating and chemical processes, hardware also can take on different looks. "Gold-plating is the most durable since it doesn't oxidize," says Luca Boncompagni, chairman of Obi, a Florence-based company that custom designs metal accessories for top Italian designers. "Since the vintage look is a big trend, we're creating gold-plated buckles and clasps that look like old, tarnished brass."
What's in a Name?
A brand name such as Fendi or Ferragamo carries more than just status. It is also a guarantee of the finest materials, extensive research and expert design. A customer who might wonder if she's really getting her money's worth should rest easy, according to Patrizia Gatti, an editor at Vogue Italia. "The most notable names have the longest experience and use the best materials," she says. "You see it in the details, in the precision—they stay true to their traditions."
Although prestigious names guarantee a quality product, savvy shoppers can also find beautiful collections in smaller, lesser-known boutiques. In Florence, two leather-goods stores definitely worth a visit are Il Bisonte (055 215 722, ilbisonte.com) and Gianfranco Lotti (055 211 301, lotti.it).
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